Wine Discussion

Is it wine yet?

Tue, 27 Mar 2012 00:17:27 GMT

(In an effort to wake this community from its slumbers ....)

I have to say that there is nothing like several hours worth of very fiddly editing work to make me say, "Is it wine yet?"

(And but for the fact that I am OMG! beyond deadline on a piece I need to finish writing, it would be.)

So, chime in with a few of your "Is it wine yet?" moments.

A decent full-bodied red for under $10: Sterling Meritage

Sun, 26 Feb 2012 17:15:39 GMT

Even though I live in Napa Valley and occasionally do the nice wines around here (just about all of them at the wineries are $30+), we've been on a kick lately of trying out $10-and-under wines from the local grocery store and Cost Plus.

Usually we decide these aren't even worth the $6-$8 we pay for them, but there have been a few exceptions. I was pleasantly surprised by Sterling Vintner Collection Meritage (mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with a little malbec and petit verdot)
Even though it's not perfectly balanced, it has some similarities to $30+ cabs I've tried around here. It's definitely for those of you who enjoy a somewhat hearty/rich wine... it has a balance of brambleberry and green vegetable flavors, with slightly chewy tannins (noticeable, enough to give it some heft -- better than most cheap cabs -- but not overbearing). To me, I get flavors of blackberry and green pepper with subtle hints of coffee and tobacco (slightly smoky/toasty oak flavor).

It's not perfect, but it certainly seems good for a full-bodied sub-$10 bottle. Usually I find the cheaper reds to be either too "ripe" and fruity tasting (like prunes or overripe something or another...), or too thin and alcohol-hot; at least this one avoids those fates.

Some other recent under $10 forays (red) we have enjoyed have been:

* Apothic Red (another blend, but no cab in this one so it's all fruit and a little oak, not so heavy on the tannins because it's mostly merlot and syrah)

* Fleur de Lyeth -- a blend of cabernet, merlot, and malbec. This one falls somewhere in between the Sterling Meritage and the Apothic Red. It's a little sturdier and not as fruity as the Apothic Red, but still has a weaker cab and stronger presence of merlot than Sterling does.

* Maggio Zinfandel (rich, quintessential Lodi/California zin flavors combining a nice balance of ripe, jammy fruit and a fair deal of spice. A mix of prune, raspberry jam, and hints of black pepper and clove)

* Greg Norman pinot (a rich red pinot with tart berry/cherry flavor)

* Concannon pinot (a lighter, ruddier pinot with strong oak presence)

A few gift wines : info and suggestions?

Sun, 25 Dec 2011 17:11:17 GMT

Salut tout le monde! So, I have a few bottles of French wine I'd like some info on in terms of taste and pairing with edible accompaniments, anyone care to help? I brought them over as gifts for my family and friends, but haven't had much time to look into them, and some were left for me as gifts by some of my students who I'm sure are more wine-savvy than I.

I'd like to have my whole family taste the champagnes and the 1998 Sauternes, and I'm giving the Monbazillac, Loupiac, and Caprice de Clémentine as gifts to individuals. Any suggestions about what I can tell them to expect as far as taste, and what one would eat with those in terms of a meal or snack? Without further ado, here are the concerned wines and a photo if that helps!

Sauternes, Chateau Romer du Hayot, 1998, 14%
Monbazillac, Chateau Hut Bernasse, 2005, 12.5%
Loupiac, Chateau de Montalier, 2009, 13.5%
Le Caprice de Clémentine, Côtes de Provence, 2010, 13%

Champange Brut, Ruinart, Maison de Ruinart, Reims 12%
Champagne Brut, Charles Bove, Méthode Traditionelle 12%

Thanks in advance/merci d'avance for any kind of info or help you can give me! I wish you all a very gleðileg jól (Icelandic :), joyeux noël, merry Christmas, and chanukkah sameach!

Favorite wine apps?

Sun, 20 Nov 2011 20:23:39 GMT

I just got my first iPhone, and I'd love to download some wine apps, but I'm a little overwhelmed by the number available, even looking at online recommendations. Features I'm interested in:

food/wine pairing
tasting notes and prices
vintage charts
easy-to-use way to do my own tasting notes on the fly

They don't all have to be in the same app. And of course free is better, but I'm willing to pay a few bucks for one or more truly useful apps. Which apps do you like best, and why?

Best wine club for your money

Sat, 29 Oct 2011 01:07:55 GMT

I've never joined a wine club before. I want wine sent to my home monthly. What are the best clubs, cost wise and wine quality?

:) Thanks in advance

More inexpensive pinots

Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:44:15 GMT

A while back I made a post comparing two Trader Joe's "VINTJS" line of pinot noir -- one from Willamette (usually a source of great pinot, but I did not lot like the TJs offering, despite being made by a well-respected source) and one from Santa Lucia (which seems to be an "up and comer" in the pinot world, and so far I haven't met a Santa Lucia pinot I didn't like); both of these were about $8, and while neither was amazing, the Santa Lucia one was quite drinkable and I was pretty pleased for the pricetag.

Well, I decided to explore a few more low-end offerings I saw at my local grocery store: one is made by Concannon and the other by Gnarly Head. The Gnarly Head was a buck more, but they were both under $10 where I live (though they may have been on sale, I don't remember.)

And they were both pretty good! Now, just to set the record straight, I'm not someone who likes "big" pinots -- I don't want my pinot to be dark and rich; if I were in the mood for that, I'd drink something other than pinot. So I much prefer it to be delicate, somewhat light-colored and transparent, and with a good balance of fruit and oak. I also love mineral, mushroomy earthiness when I can get that in a pinot, but these California pinots don't seem to do that as well as Oregon ones do. They do, however tend to have some level of toasted oak mixed with sour cherry and/or cranberry flavors, sometimes a little black tea or cola shows up in the profile as well (I find that's usually in the higher-end ones, though. There are some great -- but too expensive -- examples of these from Etude in Carneros)

Having said that, both the Concannon and Gnarly head were pretty well-balanced; the Concannon had a touch more alcohol heat and a little more of a sour profile to it (which my gf likes so we now have 4 of them sitting in the rack); the Gnarly Head is slightly more fruity/berry flavor, so I think I liked it just a little more, but at this point we just pick up whatever's a good deal.

These aren't going to hold par with many of the $40 Oregon, Carneros, Santa Lucia, and Sonoma Coast pinots (although I believe Gnarly Head actually is Sonoma Coast grapes), but for $10 or so (I believe I got them for $8 and $9) they do a respectable job of representing the varietal -- and I mention them here because they can probably be found all across America.

Need help going Red

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 15:27:07 GMT

I have always been a white wine drinker. I lean mostly to the Riesling side of life. But, I really want to venture into Red territory.

My experiences with Red in the past haven't been great. Too dry and the tannins leave me with a head ache. I have been told that the RWH is all in my head (*sighs*) and that Red is no more likely to cause headaches than White.

So why do I want to go Red? Blame it on peer pressure. Or actually on wine tasting pressure.

I love wine tastings. But every time, I ask for whites only - I get this "look" - yeah, you know the one - it says "grow up and get with the program".

Not exactly in those words, but you get my meaning. Who says the world of wine is without snobbery?

I have been told that Red is an acquired taste and one must grow into it. Well, I am willing to give it a try.

Anyone have any suggestions on some Red to cut my baby teeth on? Be gentle - nothing too dry and too hearty to start.

Thanks!

Boxed Wine - A convert

Tue, 19 Jul 2011 00:21:47 GMT

I have to admit that I have shied away from boxed wine in the past - to me it just said "cheap wine", but now I am a converted boxed wine drinker.

Last weekend was a girl's weekend - and of course it goes without saying - much wine was going to be consumed.

I was browsing the local Liquor Barn looking for something different - as we like to try new things. I am partial to Rieslings - for me a good Riesling is hard to beat if you are just sitting around drinking some wine and perhaps eating some salty dark chocolate (my secret vice).

Whoops, I digress - browsing the aisles of white wines and happen to strike up a conversation with a fellow Riesling lover and she recommended Bota Box 2008 California Riesling.

It comes in a 3L box (which equals FOUR 750 ml bottles) and priced at $18.99/box (which equals ~$4.75/bottle) the price is right.

But of course, the proof is in the pudding; and this Bota Box delivered!

The wine was slightly sweet, but not too much - it went well with that aforementioned salty dark chocolate and the salty grilled halloumi cheese we were snacking on.

I brought home what we didn't drink (another plus on boxed wine - it stays fresh up to 6 weeks) and takes up very little space in your refrigerator. As a matter of fact, I am having a glass as I write this.

Will I buy this again? You betcha. I think I will keep a box handy for last minute get togethers - at this price - I can afford it.

Lesson learned - being a wine "snob" will cost you in more ways than one....

Little Tiny Wineries

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 00:54:36 GMT

I love to shop at them.

When I was in Indiana back in May I did some Googling to see what I could find within reasonable driving distance of where my daughter lives, and came up with a list of three places that would fill an afternoon's driving.

One of them was Shady Creek, in Michigan City IN. Their sales building is obviously quite new, and the winery/vinyard are nowhere in sight. It could be anywhere along the Lake Michigan Shore wine district.

After tasting several, I wound up with a white, "Sandy Feet", and a red, "Rip Tide".

I gotta warn you here, I have a considerable sweet tooth, so I do NOT dig super-dry wines of any coloring, and fruitiness is not a sin in my mouth.

We haven't tried the white yet, but we had the Rip Tide with a roast for supper this evening.

Even on top of a plate full of roast beef and The Usual Veggies, I can still feel the slight buzz from this wine. I just checked the label; it doesn't specify the alcoholic content, though. This is definitely a Hearty Red, and on the dry side, but with just enough fruitiness to satisfy my sweet tooth.

It's been long enough ago that I don't recall the exact price, but it has to have been in the $15-$20 per bottle range, based on my general memory of how much in-total I spent that afternoon, across three wineries.

Cherry wine from juice

Fri, 24 Jun 2011 23:16:45 GMT

Looking for a recipie....anyone have a nice one?

Spokane WA

Wed, 11 May 2011 06:22:52 GMT

We have a wedding to attend in Spokane WA this summer and will have some time to kill. We saw on a website that there are a bunch of wineries in the area. Have any of you visited any of them? If so please let me know of any ones you've enjoyed. We love going to wineries here, there and everywhere when the opportunity arises.

Another TJ's pinot

Sun, 08 May 2011 00:21:13 GMT

Just wanted to share that I decided to try a 3rd VINTJS pinot on the recent trip to Trader Joe's -- I've been stocking up on 3-4 bottles of Santa Lucia each time, and on the recent visit I noticed Willamette was no longer stocked but a new one was: 2009 San Lusi Obispo County.

I decided to give it a try (1 bottle, vs. 3 bottles of Santa Lucia since I know I like that one and I had no expectations of San Luis Obispo), but I just had it (well, some of it) and it's even worse than I expected. One of the worst pinots I've had. Tastes alike it was made in a gym locker. Similar "old sock" flavor to Charles Shaw syrah. Gross. Avoid this one. Definitely get the Santa Lucia, but any others I've tried are not even worth the $9 price tag.

Fruity white wine recommendations for a spring evening?

Tue, 26 Apr 2011 20:57:54 GMT

Dear wine lovers, I have much enjoyed this comm's recommendation of Menage A Trois for an inexpensive, and yet really good, red with fun spice/fruit notes. This evening, I would love to have a glass of white wine, but I don't drink white wine often and do not know what to get.

I would love some recc's for an equally inexpensive (under $15) white wine with some body (I don't like the super crisp, watery whites) and yet that is light, fruity, and refreshing.

Suggestions?

Fri, 22 Apr 2011 02:46:32 GMT

Thought I'd try to spark some conversation and activity......

If I've been enjoying Pinot Noirs, Pinotages, Tempranillos and some (not super aggressive) Zinfandels, where should I go from here?

Sort of feel like I've been in a wine rut. Under $15 suggestions especially appreciated.

Send me your Vino Mojo!

Sat, 19 Mar 2011 22:48:26 GMT

My hubby and I are holding our "intro to wine" tasting tonight, and I have been on my feet all day prepping the house and food. (Hubby was his awesome self and cleaned the bathrooms. He'd do more but he has to work today.)

The whites:
Sauv Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Riesling

The reds:
Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cab Sauv, Shiraz.

Dessert:
Moscato
(I was going with port, but changed my mind.)
This got changed on the fly to Creme Sherry when my original dessert fell through and another guest showed up with dark chocolate covered bananas.

I will be providing some basic veggie, cheese, and fruit nibblies, but we told our guests that if they want to bring something, bring an appetizer or a main course to serve 6. It will be a true potluck and our guests will find out by themselves what does/doesn't work. ;)

---

I am collecting keys at the door, and anybody who does not have a designated driver must hang out for at least 2 hours after their last drink.

Bicyclette 2009 Pinot Noir (also a question)

Sat, 12 Mar 2011 05:25:07 GMT

Bought this when I was out shopping with my mom (Target, about $8). Usually, I'm not a big red wine drinker, but I've always liked trying new things (and anyway, if I ended up not liking it, my mom would drink it). I don't know enough to tell you about the different flavors and notes, but I was surprised to find I really liked it and would definitely recommend it to others.

See, I have a problem with a majority of reds in that they make my jaw very sore. Does anyone else have this problem or know what causes it (or should I be talking to my dentist)? I'd like to try more red wines but it's very annoying to take one sip and not be able to finish the glass because oww. Any help here would be appreciated!

Judged a bottle by its cover.grabbed it on a whim.

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 08:19:43 GMT

Anyone try this before?

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 02:43:23 GMT

My first experience with Wine was Loganberry at 85 Cents a Bottle. (Gosh, I'm getting old!) I enjoy the sweet flavor of a Tawny Port and when I was a kid, my best friend's dad made a Wine he called Dago Red. Highly bitter, so we cut it with 7-up.

Now, I'm looking for a Red that is slightly sweet. Under $20 per bottle and not to be mixed with anything. :o) Choices at the Markets such as Trader Joes and the big stores like Fred Meyer are soe large that I get frustrated at my lack of Wine Education.

Suggestions? Thanks all.

The Gret taste of wine..

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 00:13:42 GMT

I have a great taste for wine. The smooth taste with a light feeling is perfect for a long day after work, or hanging with family & friends. Please take a look and see details on the inside.

Horton Vineyards 2007 Norton

Sun, 06 Mar 2011 05:58:53 GMT

Norton/Cynthiana is a variety of grape unique to the United States.

I've been dying to try it, but you almost never see it west of the Rockies. I've been trying for years to find a vineyard that will ship to Nevada, but no dice. When I found a bottle of it at my local Total Wine, I literally yelped in delight and startled the poor guy next to me.

The label on the bottle suggested letting it rest for 7-10 years, and next time (and, oh yes, there will be a next time) I'll do so.

Color: And you thought Petite Sirah was dark! This wine is inky red-black in color.

Nose: Plums and cherries and yeah, it smelled sharp.

First Impression: Cherries, plums, and concord grapes, but a very dry concord grape note, and then a loooooonnnngggg finish of spicy orange peel. The wine was quite sharp overall, very tannic.

Breathing room: Still a bit sharp and tannic, mouthfeel was still astringent. (My next bottle's going to hang out in a cool dark place for 7-10 years.) Cherries, and plums and the spicy orange peel finish is now something between "Constant Comment" tea and a blood orange. There's definitely a note of cloves and blood orange in the nose after it breathes a bit.

This is right up there with Gewurtraminer and Pinotage in terms of the unique and distinct flavor department.

Should you wrangle a bottle, I suggest pairing it with something spicy (but not spicy hot) and tangy flavored: hearty Eastern European food, or ribs with a good vinegar-base sauce.

The Vine Yard 2007 Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc

Wed, 02 Mar 2011 03:46:55 GMT

I picked up this wine at a Fresh and Easy for about $8. Where I live, generally speaking, you don't see a Cab Franc for less than $20 -- if you can find it.

This is a tannic, angry, GRINCHY wine. The first sniff freaking stabbed me in the nose. Only after about 30 minutes of breathing did it become somewhat drinkable and showed the cherries, smoky, and green notes that are typical of Cab Franc, but it's still pretty damn bad.

On the other hand I've got a few blood oranges in the fridge and some berries in the freezer. Sangria, here I come.

VINTJS: A Tale of Two Pinots

Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:37:01 GMT

VINTJS is Trader Joe's label they use for some of their branded wines (namely pinot noir, as far as I can tell)

I first became aware of it when looking through their selection and noticing this label on a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir a year or two ago. I scrutinized the label and became curious because the wine is actually made by "Wine by Joe", which is the budget-line label of Joe Dobbs, of Dobbs Estate wine (decent pinot noir) in Oregon.

On my last TJs shopping trip, I decided it was time to investigate some new wines -- to be specific, I picked up a 2010 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau ($7.99), a LaGranja 50/50 blend of garnacha/tempranillo from Spain ($4.99... and I'm curious to start trying TJ's entire selection of inexpensive Spanish wines, so if anybody has suggestions, let me know), an Evenus Zinfandel Port from Paso Robles ($7.99), and these two pinot noirs ($7.99 each) under the VINTJS label: one is a 2009 Willamette Valley (Oregon), the other is a 2009 Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey, CA)

I've been a big fan of Oregon pinot for a while, but I was recently turned on to Santa Lucia pinot when Charles Hendricks poured me one of his own at Hope & Grace cellars in Yountville (Napa Valley) It was possibly the best California pinot I've had; I also tried his Russian River pinot, and it didn't hold a candle. Something about the Santa Lucia terroir must be amazing, because there is an extraordinary balance of fruit and earth and spice (more spice than I get in most pinots -- like a little hint of cedar and clove), and a smooth mouthfeel without the cloying sour/tartness of some pinot noirs.

So my gf and I decided we would open these side by side for a taste comparison. On pouring them (into our amazing new Riedel Vinum crystal pinot/burgundy glasses), the color and opacity difference were negligible. They were both medium-dark (for a pinot), somewhat translucent (par for the course for pinot), and only had a slight variation in color, with the Willamette wine having a slightly more ruddy hue and the Santa Lucia one having a hint of raspberry color to it.

Taking a whiff of each, the difference on the nose is remarkable. The Santa Lucia one had a rich, aromatic smell -- again giving some hints of that earth and spice, a little bit of mushroom and cedar and clove, but all mixed in with hints of ripe fruit as well. A wonderful perfume, reminiscent of potpourri or incense. The Willamette one had a slight oak smell, but gave a little more alcohol on the nose (despite being lower ABV) but the primary aroma here was sour cherry, all the way.

The flavor profiles didn't stray too far from those aromas. The Willamette Valley pinot had a much more pronounced oak (American oak, if my tastebuds don't deceive me) flavor up front than was present on the nose, quickly followed by the sour cherry primary flavor. Considering the relatively low alcohol (13.3%), it seemed a little hot, but it could be the acidity contributing to that sense. Overall it's right about what I would expect for a pinot under $10: a little thin, a little tart, a little imbalanced, but drinkable.

The Santa Lucia, on the other hand, far exceeded my expectations. In fact, it was better than several $30+ pinots I have tried, and it was certainly the best pinot noir I've had for under $10, hands down. The mouthfeel was round and smooth, there was a nice balance of fruit and earth/spice flavors, and the sour/tart acidity often found in pinot (even though I enjoy it sometimes) was a lot tamer here. I am definitely going to go back to TJ's ASAP and pick up a case of this for under $100.

Originally my gf and I had planned on finishing half a bottle of each and saving the rest for the next day, but after tasting them we figured we'd better down the Santa Lucia one since it was so excellent, and then if the Willamette one was no good the next day, we wouldn't care so much.

Mad Housewife White Zinfandel

Thu, 10 Feb 2011 01:23:50 GMT

I found this at a WalMart; it is out of the Napa Valley area, so I expected it to be at least respectable, and I wasn't disappointed.

It's not as dry as several other White Zins I've tasted [Beringer and Sutter Home leap to mind] so I liked it a bit better. But then, I prefer Niagara to White Zin. I've got a sweet tooth.

The brand also offers a merlot and a chardonnay; don't recall if there is another red in the line.

[pause to go Googling]

Yes, they do have a cabernet sauvingnon as well. I just don't recall seeing it in THAT particular store.

Tue, 08 Feb 2011 03:57:24 GMT

Chateau Coupe Roses

Minervois

2008

Caringnan and Grenache

This stuff runs about 17 a bottle, and worth every cent......
Dark fruit, pie spice, leather, cedar, cigar, cherry.
Good acid but very round mouth feel
Pretty gripping but good tannins.
got to love the south of France.

Posted via LiveJournal app for iPad.

Your Free Wine Lesson Of The Month: Rhone

Sat, 05 Feb 2011 16:44:52 GMT

Because it helps me learn, I write articles on various wine-related subjects that synthesize the information in all of my textbooks on various subjects. I post them here for those of you who many not have as many books, or who want a shortened version with links and pictures. Enjoy.

Today's subject: Rhone.

An overview

For a long time, Rhone wines were viewed as the sturdy peasant option well below Bordeaux and Burgundy, although the more aristocratic appellations often used hefty (secret) doses of Rhone wine to flesh themselves out and deepen their flavors. In the late 1980s Rhone was finally noticed, and for good reason: sweet earthyness, spice and smokey black fruit. Prices, always the best indicator, finally shot up.

The Rhone Valley is in Southeastern France, near the Swiss Alps and the Mediterranean.

The winegrowing region follows the Rhone River. The Northern portion of it is smaller and a bit more prestigious, the Southern larger and more well known. The two halves are about an hour's drive apart and very distinct in style. Were it not for the river that connects them would probably be known as separate appellations.

As with all French wine regions, the more specifically the place of origin is named, the better the wine. The most renowned Northern sub-appellations are Cote-Rotie and Hermitage; the big name in the South is Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The popular, well-priced generic Cotes-du-Rhone can come from anywhere in the valley, although they usually come from large tracts of land in the Southern half.

Twenty-three varietals are grown in the Rhone Valley, though only a handful are truly important. In the North the rules are easy to remember. All red wines come from exactly one grape: syrah. Whites are either viogner or a marsanne/roussanne blend. Southern wines tend to feature a chorus of grapes, but the dominant and famous trio of reds are grenache, syrah, and mouvedre (abbreviated to "GSM" in the industry) and sometimes the fourth musketeer, cinsault.

Northern Rhone

The regions of Northern Rhone from North to South: Cote-Rotie, Condrieu, Chateau-Grillet, St-Joseph, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, and St-Peray. The best vinyards cling to narrow, rocky terraces on the steep slopes over the river. The granite-and-slate soil is shallow and poor, held in place by hand-built stone walls. Even so, some of the weathered, crumbly soil still washes down the slopes in the winter rain, and the Rhone winemakers do what they've always done in response - climb down and haul the precious stuff back up in buckets.

The winters in the north are cold and wet, the summers hot, with spring and fall fogs making the southern orientation of the vineyards critical. Syrah takes beautifully to this climate, producing some of the world's most intense, wild, dramatic wines, overflowing with gamy, animal flavors. The flavor that tips you off to Northern Rhone is the omnipresent white pepper. From there, the wines explode with notes of incense, forest, leather, and intense black fruit. Much of this is due to the age of the vines - many at least forty years old, some broaching a hundred. Old vines do not produce many grapes, but the ones they do are packed with flavor.

A traditional winemaking custom of note is that of including the stems along with the grapes during fermentation. This gives them their distinctive spicy, briary aroma, like cedar or sandalwood. Stems also contain additional tannin, giving the wines more edge and grip.

A brief overview of the Crus of Northern Rhone:

Cote-Rotie - Literally "roasted hillside." Red only, 100% syrah. Thrilling, incisive, gamy flavors, earth and pepper pacing back and forth in the glass. The alternation between heat and cool on the steep, sun-drenched hillsides with their high altitude breezes gives Cote-Rotie a savage precision. Uniquely, up to 20% viogner may be blended in, though less than 5% is typical, lending a fascination, exotic aroma.

Condrieu - White only, 100% viogner. A notoriously fickle, low-acid grape that is difficult to grow and handle, but in great years explodes with lush honeysuckle, peaches, melons, lychee, orange peel and gardenia, with a texture like whipped cream.

Chateau-Grillet - White only, 100% viogner. A single, prestigious producer that has been granted it's own appellation. At 8.6 acres, the smallest AOC region in France, entirely surrounded by Condrieu.

St-Joseph - Reds are 100% syrah, St-Joseph Blanc, marsanne/roussanne. Some St-Josephs are dynamite, some medicore, due to recent expansion of the appellation to include plateaus with less ideal sun exposure.

Hermitage - Red 100% syrah, Hermitage blanc, marsanne/roussanne. The prestigious reds are leathery, meaty and packed with blackberry, black cherry, and smokey, damp earth flavors. The English scholar and wine writer George Saintsbury one described salty, musky Hermitage as "the manliest wine" he'd ever drunk. Hermitage Blanc is an acquired taste - oily, resiny, earthy, high alcohol and expressive of the terroir.

Crozes-Hermitage - Red 100% syrah, white marsanne/roussanne. A much larger appellation full of less distinguished, higher-yielding vineyards than Hermitage.

Cornas - "Scorched earth." Red only, 100% Syrah. Dense, edgy, masculine, opening with a phalanx of white pepper that hits you in the teeth, followed by an explosion of brine and a lashing of black leather. Not everyone's cup of tea, but those who love it, love it. Aging is critical - seven to ten years.

Southern Rhone

Southern Rhone is part of the sunny, herb-scented, lavender-strewn Mediterranean. Hot days are pierced by le mistral, the savage, cold wind that blows down from the Alps, brightening the acidity and keeping the grapes free of humidity and mold. The vineyards in Southern Rhone spread further from the river over gentler hills, with fundamentally different soil: clay, limestone, gravel, or just plain stones. In places, vines are planted in what appears to be a riverbed of rocks, some the size of cantaloupes.

Blending is king. The full roll call of reds include: grenache, syrah, mouvedre, cinsault, counoise, muscardin, terret noir, vaccarese, carignan, calitor, gamay, and pinot noir. The whites are: grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc, picardan, picpoul, ugni blanc, marsanne, roussanne, viogner, muscat, and macabeo. Not all grapes are permitted in all appellations.

In addition to red and white, Southern Rhone also produces Rose and sweet wines. Cooperatives, who have amazing clout, produce 70 percent of Southern Rhone wine, many of which are cleverly named to sound like estates. Most generic Cotes-du-Rhone come from Southern Rhone, as well as the more selective Cotes-du-Rhone Villages.

The Crus of Southern Rhone, from North to South: Clairette de die, Cotes du Vivaris, Cotes du Tricastin, Vinsobres, Rasteau vin doux Naturel, Gingondas, Beaumis du Venise, Vaqueras, Lirac, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Tavel, Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Luberon.

A brief overview of the most significant of the appellations of Southern Rhone:

Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Red and white, famous for reds and the "Chateauneuf Thirteen": grenache, syrah, mouvedre, cinsault, muscardin, counoise, vaccarese, terret noir, clairette, bourboulenc, roussanne, picpoul, picardin. The definitive Southern Rhone red: penetrating, dense, sassy, earthy, with an edge of tar, leather and rough stone, they beg for a hot night and a dish loaded with garlic, black olives and wild herbs. Yields are kept very low and there is a near-total-absence of oak used, so Chateauneufs taste nakedly of their terroir. A few notable whites are produced, but only make up around 5% of total production.

Gogondas - red and rose, usually about 80% grenache, 15% syrah or mouvedre, 5% usually cinsault or any other Rhone red except carignan. Robust, muscular, raspberry, leather, spice.

Vacqueyras - mostly red, GSM, but more dominantly syrah. Even more rustic than Gigondas; sun and hot stony ground, scrappy dried brush and wild herbs, currants, blueberries, pepper. A minuscule amount of white and rose also produced.

Tavel - all rose. 9 Rhone grapes, dominantly grenache. Bone dry, robust berries and spice. Some of the best rose in the world.

Cotes-du-Rhone, including Cotes-du-Rhone Villages - red and white. Nearly 80% of wine from Rhone is non-cru, produced on vast tracts of non-contiguous land. These vary highly in quality. Some are excellent.

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